Day 24: Villarmentero de Campos to Carrion de los Condes
Andrew and I took our time leaving Wilbert’s hippie albergue this morning. We lingered over Wilbert’s homemade bread, farm fresh eggs, homemade marmalade, and coffee or tea. Wilbert then blessed our journey with a hug, told us he loved us, and invited us back whenever and forever. Vishnu and Javier waited on the porch to bless us, our Camino to Santiago, and our Life Camino.
When we were several hundred metres along the dirt path that followed a tree line, I’m sure I saw Wilbert “playing” in his garden. I hope he is still playing when Andrew and I return to this hippie pueblo in a couple of years.
The rest of the morning was frustrated by searing sun and miscommunication. As Andrew and I enjoyed the river route, sometimes stepping on ankle-turning rocks, we knew we’d eventually emerge at the Ermita de la Virgen del Río (Hermitage of Our Lady of the River). The door stood open, so we stepped over an awkward rise into the little church to have our credentials stamped. After some time of rest and reflection, we exited the church as a Hungarian surgeon and his wife tried to manoeuvre past me. The poor man then attempted to give me relief from my injuries, but neither Andrew nor I could understand the man’s “English” or pantomime. 
I peed behind the church. Another form of relief. When I rejoined Andrew in the shade of the church wall, the Hungarian surgeon thundered over with a small backpack-sized bag of medical supplies. He thrust them at me. “Tablet, for YOU,” he gruffed. “In Budapest, I surgeon. Take tablet now.” 
I did. Happily. Gratefully.
When later we saw him holding his wife’s hand in Carrion de los Condes, he smiled and waved. This, too, I accepted happily and gratefully. 
In Carrion de los Condes we stayed at a converted monastery. We had two of three single beds in the room. Bonus. The doors and ceilings were six feet high, at most. No bonus. Pictures of Andrew standing taller than the heavy entrance door reminded me of the movie Being John Malkovich. Judging from the FaceBook likes, others thought so, too.
I wolfed down a salad for supper, then went on a wifi hunt. Bar owners were not helpful, and we didn’t realize, until it was too late, that the government building offered free wifi in the city centre. A somewhat friendly bartender who shared his bar space with kids’ toddler toys, gave us a password for his wifi. But he closed soon after delivering the goods, so we crept back to meet a 10:00 p.m. curfew, our heads bowed…to fit through the door frame.
Tomorrow we bus to León. I have loved the Meseta and the people that live on it and walk through it. But injuries that continue to plague me rob us of days to Fisterre and Muxia. So hello León, and farewell Meseta skies…for now.
¡Ultreia!
~Penny