The WiFi has been mostly unavailable or iffy at best. I have so much to tell, and now two separate Caminos to write about, I’m not even sure where to begin. Since Andrew and I started walking out of Sarria, I have been calling this My Camino 2.0. Of course, for poor Andrew, who has been unfailingly supportive at my side, it is the beginning of his pilgrimage.
I really should finish the tale of my pilgrimage from St. Jean Pied de Port to Navarette, where everything came to a sudden and painful end. But know that even after two doctors at the Burgos University Hospital, and one fine physiotherapist in Leon said my camino was Kaput!, I am on my feet with the aid of two crutches and one fine man who often acts as my left crutch. In addition to Andrew, a pair of 36 Euro crutches (with reflectors!), some very strong drugs, and encouragement from the most amazing peregrinos along the Way, prayer has been most healing. We manage to find a church in every town that offers a Pilgrim Mass complete with a special Pilgrim Blessing. The priest in Leon said a little blessing in Spanish for my knee. Actually, I was a bit shy going to the front of the church for the blessing, given I completely botched the passing of the host while balancing two crutches and trying not to fall over. I think God and the priest forgave me!! Oh, and, did I mention the great drugs? 🙂

So, before I miss my curfew at the albergue where there is NO WiFi, let me continue with Camino Part 1: Zariquiegue to Maneru.

Spain has one hell of a lot of hills. Going up is murder when you are out of shape. Going down is murder…even if you are in shape. I went up and down many, many hills on my way to Maneru. The downhill experience is further complicated by large, loose rocks that I managed to mostly navigate at a speed that rivaled fossilization.

The climb to Alto de Perdon (the metal sculptures of medieval pilgrims) was a challenge. At the bottom of the hill, I remember thinking, “At least I don’t have to climb up to those wind turbines.” Well, I was close enough.

At the summit, I posed for an iphone picture at the ass end of a metal horse. It was the only way to look good. I mean, how can you look bad next to a horse’s ass?

Then came one of THE worst rocky descents of the Camino. I can’t speak for the descent into Roncesvalles, as I took the pussy path down. Well, it WAS longer than the harder path.

The rest is pretty much a blur of heat, thirst, difficult paths, blackberries, and beautiful graffiti. I passed through Puente del Reina, said goodbye to my Korean companion, and continued over yet another medieval bridge toward…well, I wasn’t really sure where I was headed. But when I arrived, I was damn happy to snag the last bed (top bunk again) in a 12-bed albergue that felt like an oasis. Welcome to Maneru. Say God bless to a meal that included white asparagus, tomatoes and olives, and wine, wine, wine. And the company of peregrinos is always the best part of the day.

I have yet to really enjoy the meditative aspect of the walk. Yes, I should have trained. Yes, I should have carried less. I should have lost a few pounds, too, so I could better enjoy a daily 20 km walking meditation. But I enjoy the camaraderie of pilgrims. We have the Way in common, and I draw much peace, philosophy, laughter and balm from their banter in the wildest mix of languages outside of my ESL classroom.

And I miss my home.

Love you all.
Ultreia!