Day 17: Stuck in Leon. No walking.

Things have taken a drastic detour. Before I look back on my peregrina days, I’ll spill the unexpected details of the past several days leading to my prescribed bed rest, two trips to the hospital, a visit to a physiotherapist, and a pair of crutches.

Warning! It ain’t pretty or even terribly interesting! You can scroll down to the Zubiri to Trinidad de Arre section. 🙂

After getting lost way too often (how did I get around India?), I added a few unnecessary kilometers to my day, and limped into Viana. I might have walked 17 -18 kms, but my left knee pained me terribly. Perhaps carrying a single wood walking stick was not in my knee’s best interest? I drew the compassion of Carmen, the hospitalera, who kindly gave me a bottom bunk. Other peregrinos went out to buy food for me,, as I could not put much weight on my left knee. My pain prevented me from going into town to watch the running of the bulls (which Carmen said was actually a running of the cows. I can’t say. I wasn’t there.

The next morning brought little change. I was the last to leave the albergue, and stubbornly refused to listen to my body. I limped past the bullfighting ring as city workers cleaned the streets and wished me a Buen Camino…poor peregrina. I limped to and through Logrono and on to Navarette (another day of close to 20 km after getting lost several times).

Maybe Navarette is where my Camino ends. I’m not sure. I spent two nights and a full day in bed with my left leg elevated to alleviate the swelling. Somehow, I had to get to Burgos to meet Andrew, but boarding a bus was not possible. Enter Raoul and his Toyota taxi. God bless the man, and the hospitaleros at El Cantero. Three people carried me down two flights of stairs (bye-bye dignity) and placed me in the taxi. One hundred kilometers and 130 Euros later, Raoul deposited my backpack at Hostal Lar in Burgos, then promptly drove me to the new University Hospital in Burgos. I had to visit the good doctors at the hospital twice. The second time with Andrew. Half carrying me. My left leg was swollen from the knee to my toes. My ankle bone disappeared under a fleshy mass, and my toes looked like sausages.

The doctor did blood work and x-rays to rule out an infection, a blood clot, a broken    meniscus, and God know what else? They’ve seen many Camino injuries, judging from the eye rolling whenever someone pointed to my knee and said “Camino de Santiago”. They bound my knee tighter than a King Tut wrap, and ordered several more days of absolute bed rest.

Andrew and I took a long three-hour bus ride across the Meseta to Leon from Burgos, a seven-day walk! We discussed many options, including my return to Canada, our return to Canada, and touring Spain on my damnable crutches until I can walk again… at some point. The fantastic physiotherapist in Leon has been helpful, but he’s uncertain I’ll be able to finish my Camino. I see him again tomorrow for more deep tissue massage and ultrasound. (Oh, and always have travel medical insurance.)

I have cried uncontrollably of loneliness, frustration, pain, disappointment, fear, and shame. When Andrew showed up late Saturday night to my dark room in a Burgos Hostal (I couldn’t get off the bed to pee or turn on a light) carrying licorice all sorts and a bag of candy corn, I cried on his shoulder. I figured I hadn’t just ruined my Camino by pushing through the pain, but I had just murdered his dream and our honeymoon.

My Camino lessons have largely occurred along the detour. I’m not sure I’ll be able to walk to Santiago de Compostela. I’m letting go, slowly.  I am listening to my body now.  Jose Luis told me in Burgos, “You have only one pair of knees. The Camino will always be here. Come back well.”

I am grateful for my health. I am wounded in a foreign country, but I am well.

I am blessed by the countless people who have touched my life along the Camino, and helped me toward wholeness when I felt anything but whole.

And I am married to a man I smugly thought I knew, and yet am now experiencing his enormous  spirit and selflessness and compassion.  God bless you, Andrew. God blessed  me with you so many years ago.

Sorry for the length of this and the emotion. It’s sure to raise a few laughs or eye brows.  Many things happened on the Way from St. Jean Pied de Port to Navarette. I’ll report on those another day, assuming the WiFi holds out here in Leon. I experienced a three-day WiFi dry spell in Burgos. But here in the shadow of Leon’s beautiful cathedral, I know that whatever happens next on this Camino…every little thing is gonna be all right.

Miss you all so much. Love you more.

Ultreia!